Saturday, August 06, 2005

Gdansk Aug 5th

Gdansk Aug 5th, sunny, chilly.

A quick note or two only today...Took the train west just to sample the Pomeranian countryside: rolling, pleasing,deep forest copses, rich looking land with wheat and what looks to my urban eyes as peas....but surely not vast fields of them? Went to Slupsk which is pronounced SWOOPSK and is right enjoyable to say! It's a formerly mostly German town (and looks it), one of the few in the area which seems relatively unscathed by WWII....a rather nice local museum with the usual armor, stuffed birds, farm implements...but this one having a good picture gallery with early 20th century Polish stuff, some nice pieces, lots of portraits somehow greatly influenced by Egon Schiele.

Came back to Gdansk and wandered the streets...for the Dominican Market, a street market which is supposed to have gone back to the 13th century....who can count?...which explains all of the kitsch in every visible direction...lots of buskers about though which is fun. I had thought of buying my beloved granddaughter Jane something nice in amber but there is so damned much amber around that nothing looks very pretty. We'll see.

In Gdansk they are making a huge thing out of the 40th anniversary of SOLIDARITY and well they should...some terrific political posters around...I learn too that they are going to open the house of the Nazi boss of Danzig (Forster) to the public as a sort of chamber of horrors...He was a particularly bad one: He had helped organize a long list of locals (socialists/poles/jews of course/intellectuals to be arrested immediately when the invasion (he was in the loop)....they had already staked out the notorious STUTTHOF camp, one of the really worst ones, which I will visit on my way Sunday to the Wolf's Lair at Rastenburg....I am keen to stay there in Eva Braun's bungalow....maybe there are ghosts...(Unity Mitford said that Eva had absolutely "no conversation.").

The question for the day:

Czy moj polski jest tok zly????


Fred

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